Tucked away beyond a gateway at West Smithfield lies the church of St. Bartholomew The Great. It is London's oldest church. It was originally part of an Augustinian Priory built in 1123. Its founder was Rahere, a favourite of King Henry I. He went on a pilgrimage to Rome where he fell seriously ill. He vowed to set up a hospital for the poor back in London if he survived. About to return to England on regaining his health he had a vision of St. Bartholomew, who told him to build his hospital in Smithfield.
The Priory was dissolved by that later Henry - the VIIIth - in 1539. Part of the building was demolished but the choir and sanctuary were retained for use as a parish church. It briefly reverted to being a Dominican house under Mary, then went back to a parish church under Elizabeth I.
The church survived the Great Fire of 1666, as well as bombing by Zeppelins in 1917 and by the Luftwaffe in WW2. A major restoration took place at the end of the 19th Century to return it to its medieval appearance.
Rahere is buried by the high altar and, of course, his hospital remains in the immediate vicinity - surviving numerous attempts by unfriendly governments to close it down.
One interesting grave slab to be seen is that of Jonathan Thornell (d. 1757). His was one of those trades which were once common but are now quite rare - a hair merchant. These merchants bought human hair for the making of wigs.
You can look round the church for a modest fee when services aren't running. There is a rather nice cloister cafe. The church has a very good music programme, and is also home to a theatre company. They're doing Shakespeare's Richard II and Marlowe's Edward II this summer.
The gateway entrance to the church. |
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